A few years ago I had the opportunity to interview Lior Lev Sercarz when his book Mastering Spice came out. He has such a thoughtful take on blending spices with results that are surprising and delicious. The first recipe I made from his book was his Brown Sugar Banana Bread which uses an unusual blend of spices. I was instantly a fan. The blend didn’t stand out as aromatherapy which bad blends and overly aggressive spicing can do and which I detest. As a cook whose young adult palate was formed in Italy I’ve never been a huge user of spices, except when making a specific cuisine when spices are the backbone of flavor. India I see you. So reading about spice through Lior’s eyes was like entering a new world. Yes, he often begins with place, geography and tradition, but he goes beyond. His blends are thoughtful and not gratuitously weird. As a classically trained chef he strives for balance with a bit of surprise.
With the marketing machine behind pumpkin spice (PS) gearing up for another fall of everything PS I couldn’t think of a better person to ask about the phenomenon and to give a few alternatives for those of us who want a warming blend that goes beyond the typical. Here’s our Q and A.
What was your reaction to "pumpkin spice" becoming a yearly trend that encompasses everything from spice blends themselves to lattes and candles.
I must say that I never heard of PS until I moved to the US. I was sure it either had pumpkin in it or it was at least used in pumpkin dishes. Once I learned about the ingredients, I was surprised to see how popular it is. To me it was the American version of (quatre epices) the French 4 spice, nothing more. I still do not understand what is the big deal about it and why it is such a seasonal thing. I guess some very good marketing and sales people managed to make it so popular.
What do you think people are responding to in the blend and why they crush so hard on it?
I think people like rituals and the blend is also sweet and floral which makes it easy to love and use. At the end of the day it is a great ad and marketing campaign. It is very festive sounding.
Have you ever created a PSB? Why, why not?
I created our own version at La Boite and we call it PMK. It was a client's request. I added some dry honey, mace and citrus to it just because I wanted something more complex and fun. Now we only sell it wholesale.
Personally when I make foods that call for warm spices I always look for spice blends that already exist in a culture with a tradition. For example I use chai spice masalas I find in Indian shops for pumpkin pie. And until I started using Mastering Spice I used garam masala in some baked goods. What are some traditional blends you recommend if people want to go beyond the simple sweetness of PS?
I love using things like four spice, five spice, Chai masala, and Hawayej coffee spice.
What are a couple untraditional blends you make at La Bôite that you recommend instead of PS?
We make a few blends that can be used such as Sri Lanka, Baharat, Reims, Yemen, Bombay, Mishmish (honey/saffron/lemon), Massalis. (In fact, he has a list of Top Ten Blends for Fall Baking).
”Here are some great blends to level up your favorite classics as well as some new ones to bring into the mix. They all hover around the similar warm spice vibe with little aromatic twists and turns along the way.”
If there is a particular spice you wish people knew would rock their baking (or winter squash cooking) world what would you want them to try?
I think people should use more Amchoor! It is green dried mango powder that adds amazing fruit notes and acidity. It would be fantastic for baking and many other savory dishes.
Please feel free to vent about PS as much as you want.
21 years later, I am now at peace with PS. I do not use it but I am ok with it being a thing. I wish I had thought about it first!
Here is Lior’s advice on purchasing and using single spices and blends.
Are you a slave to Pumpkin Spice? What warming blends do you love?
Listen to my conversation with Madeleine Brand on Press Play about my thoughts on pumpkin spice.
I don’t drink coffee. Most scented candles give me a headache. So I don’t do the whole pumpkin spice thing.
But I love to bake. & fall is time for gingerbread, pumpkin pie, a new hermit-like bar cookie, etc. For almost 40 years I’ve baked 1 pumpkin pie recipe & only 1, from the Laura Secord Canadian cookbook (my dad got his PhD in Canada). It’s seasoned with cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg & clove & the clove is what makes it perfect.
Thanks for this, Evan! So very interesting. I prefer to mix my own spices for baking pumpkin pies, muffins and breads rather than buy pumpkin spice blends, which I believe are mostly just cinnamon anyway. I think Lior is right that PSB is a marketing gimmick and by now a cliche. His special blends sound far more creative. Clearly I’ll have to order his book!🎃